Japan Diary

Shinkansen

The petite, just-about-5-foot tall lady stands in stark contrast to the aerodynamic monster she is about to pilot. Many of the drivers of the Shinkansen, also known as the bullet train, are young women like her, 20 something, awaiting patiently for the incoming train to arrive at the Tokyo Shinkansen train station platform. While no longer the fastest train in the world, even though its peak speed crosses 300km per hour quite easily, it is still the world’s ‘original’ high speed ‘super express’.
I had heard a lot about Shinkansen timings being impeccable and every minute of the timing being honored. I was keen to notice just one specific bit- my train was supposed to leave at 23 minutes past the hour, so when exactly would it leave- would it be just as the clock transited from 22minutes 59 seconds to 23 minutes; or would it be at 23 minutes 59 seconds, or somewhere in between. We departed at 15 seconds past 23 minutes. While setting one’s watch is no longer necessary in an age where smart phones synchronize time from mobile networks- but before they came in, setting it to the Shinkansen timing would have been a very credible (and accurate) alternative. The JR (Japanese Railways) publishes statistics on Shinkansen punctuality timings every year, with the average delay in 2012, aggregated over all trains on all routes being 36 seconds; a poor performance compared to the 1997 record of 18 seconds.
The Tokyo- Osaka sector is also Wi-Fi enabled, so most passengers on board are busy on the ubiquitous devices. As I write this on a 2.2 kg, 15 inch screen Lenovo laptop, i can lay claim to being the proud owner of the bulkiest device on this train.  


Fuji-san

One of the key attractions on the  Tokyo-Osaka-Tokyo journeys is the crossing of Mount Fuji(yama). Whether by train or by plane, the key is to have a window seat on the left side while going from Tokyo for the Fuji view, and on the right side for the return leg. One day, I hope to capture the iconic Japanese image of a bullet train crossing by Mount Fuji with cherry blossoms in full bloom.
Called Fuji-san, with the honorific suffix San being suffixed like with most other things in Japan, it is highly revered by all Japanese. Fuji-san is as much about cultural heritage as it is about natural heritage. It is the highest mountain in Japan, with a perfectly symmetrical, conical shape.  The fact that it is an active volcano does not worry too many people as its last volcanic activity was in 1707. There has been speculation about an imminent volcanic eruption post the 2011 earthquake and Tsunami, with several mathematical models suggesting danger. That does not deter too many Japanese from continuing to revere and visit Fuji san.
On my bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka, I ask the train staff what time could I see Mount Fuji. At 39 minutes past 2, is the prompt response. And sure enough, at the appointed hour, I got a clear, uninhibited, picturesque view of Japan’s most famous geographical structure.

Earthquakes

Earthquakes are a common feature of life in Japan for centuries. The whole world was stirred during the earthquake + Tsunami of 2011. For most residents, coping with earthquakes is a way of life. They just keep happening. The year 2013 saw more than 300 earthquakes in the country. A very high level of preparedness exists amongst most residents. Most earthquakes are mild, and only a few are felt. The level of tolerance to earthquakes also goes up as one spends more time in Japanp’. There are apps and devices which give the intensity of an earthquake when it occurs, and can be programmed to raise an alarm beyond whichever level on the Richter scale one chooses. A friend of mine had earlier set the level at 3.5. This meant that at that intensity (or above), there would be an alarm. In a few weeks, he re-programmed it to 4. Then, 4.5. His current level of tolerance is at 5.5.

Serious people? Kidding me?

Comics (manga) are an essential element of Japanese culture. The craze for comic characters in Japan is perhaps the highest in the world. Many Japanese lead almost parallel life through the various characters, in comics, books and video games. While there are thousands of Japanese manga characters, there are some which have become worldwide icons of Japanese culture, like Doraemon. Most children worldwide are familiar with the ear-less robotic cat, who has travelled back in time from the 22nd century to be of assistance to the protagonist, the bumbling schoolboy Nobita. So high is the influence of Doraemon that Doraemon has been appointed as the Olympic games ambassador for the 2020 Olympics, which toklyo will host. He trumped ‘Hello Kitty’ to be firmly established as what its fans call, ‘The Number 1 symbol of Japanese culture worldwide’.  Doraemon was appointed Japan’s first anime ambassador a few years ago by the foreign ministry.
Doraemon also has a very important role to play in my life- and I scouted around buying Doraemon memorabilia for my son, nephew and niece. Unfortunately, none of these mementoes, whether the soft toy or the stationery or the water bottle were made in Japan. They all came in from Japan’s big, westward neighbor.  It is really hard to find Made in Japan stuff in Japan. It is all made in China. The thing about the Made in Japan stuff is that it is, truly, many levels of quality above the kind of stuff dished out by the Chinese. And needless to say, many times more expensive.

More old, less young

Japan is the world’s largest geriatric society and there are several villages with dozens of 100 year olds and the youngest inhabitants in their 70s.
At the other end of the demographic spectrum is the choice that many young Japanese are making with regards to relationships. A large number are choosing to stay unmarried, and many more choosing not to have children at all. A survey i read up in the Japan times mentioned that the percentage of eligible adults in Japan not getting married (out of choice) at about 20%, up from 5% in 1990. Those choosing not to have children numbered around 40%.
Women are leading this charge. The reason cited is the pressure to conform to the family model of salaried husband and stay-at-home-manage-the-chores-housewife, with little or no support from the husband in managing the house and children. The corporate attitudes in Japan make it impossible for a woman to combine a career with children and this is prompting many women, especially in urban areas, to forego marriage and children, and instead focus on fulfilling their professional & career ambitions while retaining their independence.  ‘Marriage is the grave of a woman’s career’, was a saying I heard from more than one person while talking on this subject.
Men have their own reasons, but lack of freedom upon marriage, interference from the spouse and an increasing economic burden of managing a family are the top reasons cited by many men for not getting into marriage.
The result: Japan already has one of the world's lowest birth rates. Its population is shrinking substantially, and is projected to plunge a further one-third by 2060.


India- Yes. China- No.

Japan has a long standing history of relationship and respect for India and Indian culture. However, I was surprised to notice a lot of respect for Indians skills on Mathematics, Logical ability and English. A small, but ever increasing number of Japanese parents, are putting their children in Indian schools in Tokyo, run on Indian curriculum like CBSE, so that their children can be good at these skills and be competitive in a world where they have to compete hard with the Chinese, the Koreans and everyone else.
Much before this, with Buddhism coming in from India, travelers from Japan had a special interest in writing about Indian culture. There were also exchange students at the Nalanda university and political alliances during the Indian freedom struggle with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose and Rash Behari Bose getting support from the Japanese.
Rajanikanth still retains his popularity as the numero-uno Indian movie star in Japan, in an orbit where none of the Khans and Bachchans operate. Salman Khan comes in a distant second, but is slowly gaining in popularity. A new Rajani movie gets released in over a thousand movie halls in Japan.
While India is high on the charts, China is a favourite whipping boy, a phenomenon which has not changed over hundreds of years of history. The reason for many of Japan’s problems, for example, the end of many industries, is laid at China's doorstep. Pollution and poor air quality is attributed to air pollutants flying in from China into Japanese air.

Curry powder and Netaji

Indian curry is quite popular in Tokyo, and one can find lots of Indian restaurants, although many of the cooks are Nepali. One of Tokyo's oldest Indian restaurant is called Nair's, named after  A.M. Nair, an Indian student in Japan, who left his medical studies and became an independence activist after coming in touch with Subhash Chandra Bose and becoming his valet and translator. Nair married a local Japanese girl, renamed her Janaki-amma and started an Indian restaurant in upscale Ginza in Tokyo. Legend has it that the last person to see Netaji alive was Nair’s driver, Chindan Nair, who drove him to the airport before he took that ill fated flight, the mystery of which, is matched perhaps only by that of MH-370.
Coming back to Nair's (the restaurant), it’s staple offering is curry and Kerala food. The restaurant is now run by Nair's son (AM Nair died in 1990). My attempts to eat at Nair's had met with failure all three times i tried on my previous visit. Weekly off, and closed for renovation were the outcomes of the first two attempts. On the third occasion, I was turned out as i landed up at 8.25 PM, just five minutes before the closing time of 8.30 PM. Communism was alive., I told myself. Cholbe-na.  This time, I decided to give it one last shot, and was lucky to find the restaurant open. The food was absolutely nothing to write home about, neither was the service. However, the piece de resistance was a book on AM Nair, which I borrowed for the duration of the meal, which captured the story of Netaji, AM Nair and Japan’s surrender after the Nagasaki bombing in 1945 in a fascinating, personal account.

Epilogue

I take the direct flight from Tokyo to Delhi, and connect to Hyderabad via a domestic flight. Seated next to me is a person from the Afghanistan government, coming to Hyderabad for a training in Information Technology. When I answer ‘One’ to his question, “How many children do you have”, he almost chides me and says ‘One should have at least half a dozen’. Coming in from Japan, where marriage and children are being shunned faster than the arrival of the next version of a video game, life, in just twelve hours, had come a full circle  !

Crystal ball gazing-2

I write this with three of the Semi Finalists for the World Cup decided.

And so far, these have matched my predictions in my previous blog. Argentina, Brasil and Germany are through.

Here's hoping for Costa Rica to put it across Netherlands in a few hours, and make my  prediction 4 out of 4 successful.

On a separate note, i was asked by several of my friends to put some money on teams, especially as i was bullish on Costa Rica from the very beginning. So far, going by standard rates, i could have made 50 times the money.

I never put any money. This is a lesson from long long ago- as any sport where money comes into the picture, you always lose the joy of sport. You cease enjoying heroics on the field. Monetary calculations override sporting excellence.

With that, its 105 minutes to go for kick-off. And possibly another 90 for Costa Rica to go through.

:-) 

Football World Cup- crystal ball gazing

I write this a day before the knock-out rounds of the Football World cup are about to start.

First, a question which many of friends have been asking on who am i supporting in this world cup. Having lived and worked in Latin America and with a large network of Latin American friends, it is a difficult question to anwer.

However, i have made a small algorithm, which determines my order of support in a football match. The pecking order (of my support) is -

1) Underdog
2) Brazil
3) Rest of Latin America
4) Africa
5) Europe

While that is the order of support, i have made my predictions on the remainder of the tournament- its knockout phase.The forecasts below are based on a concocted mix of the heart and the mind.

Enjoy the speculation:


1) Argentina vs Switzerland = Winner Argentina. Score 2-0

2) Brazil vs Chile = Winner Brazil. Score 2-1

3) Colombia vs Uruguay= Winner Colombia. Score 3-2

4) Netherlands vs Mexico= Winner Mexico. Score 1-1. Win on Penalties.

5) Costa Rica vs Greece= Winner Costa Rica. Score 2-0

6) france vs Nigeria= Winner France. Score 2-1

7) Germany vs Algeria= Winner Germany. Score 3-1

8) Belgium vs USA= Winner USA. Score 2-1

----------------------------------------------------
Then, the quarters

1) Brazil Vs Colombia = Winner Brazil. Score 2-2. Win on Penalties
2) Mexico Vs Costa Rica = Winner Costa Rica. Score 1-0
3) France vs Germany = Winner Germany. Score 3-0
4) Argentina vs USA = Winner Argentina. Score 2-1

----------------------------------------------
Semis

1) Germany vs Brazil = Winner Germany. Score 2-1
2) Argentina vs Costa Rica = Winner Argentina. Score 3-1

-------------------------------

Finals

Germany vs Argentina = Winner Argentina. Score 3-2

third Place-
Brazil vs Costa Rica = Winner Brazil. Score 4-0

--------------------------------

Yours in soccer,

Somethin AMISH

What can one say about people who live without electricity? Without telephones. Without gadgets. Without cars. Without colleges. And far worse:  without Facebook.

And do so WILLINGLY.

Nuts? Medieval? Ahead of the times? Just different?

The contrast is made starker by the fact that such a place can exist in the heart of individualistic, consumerist America. In this time and age. Today. Now. As i write. And as you read.

Welcome to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, in Lancaster County. Situated about two hours by train from Philadelphia, i decided to take a weekend out to experience this fascinating, intriguing place.

This is where the Amish people live. They are a traditional Christian group, epitomized by a lifestyle which is very simple and traditional, and shuns most modern technology and conveniences.

Some of the choices and practices they undertake are likely to shake up most of us-

Sample a few-

• A photograph might lead to vanity. That could take one away from collectivism. So, no photographs. Selfies, not a chance

• Consumer goods make people run after gadgetry. And get into a race to acquire more and more. And will make people reluctant to do manual labour. So, shun them.

• Families are good. More the numbers in a family, the better. Family is central. Bringing and nurturing them in a community environment is the core to living the Amish life. Larger families means more community participation. Contraception is shunned.

• Simple way of life has to show in dressing as well. Clothes should serve a functional, and not a fashion purpose. Hence, no cheques or stripes or florals. Wear only solid colours.

• Self reliance is good. Grow your own food. Live within the community. So no need to claim social security (something which everyone in America does)

• Violence is bad. Non-resistance is to be practiced. So no military service.

• Submit to nature. Follow a healthy life style. Work hard. By doing so, health will remain good. If there are any health issues, they can be taken care of locally using traditional remedies.  Hence, no medical insurance is necessary. However, many in the Lancaster County participate in Church Aid, a self-insurance plan, which operates quite informally.


While at Lancaster, I undertook a tour of the place and strolled around for a couple of days, trying to soak in the very unique place. The Amish are very mild, and generally avoid outsiders.

Large farms, horses, livestock are common sights. Horse buggies and wagons are the usual mode of transport. Farming, rearing animals, stitching, small mechanical repairs are the major activities.

The Sunday church congregation is core to the feeling of community. And it is the most important event of the week and is much more of a social event than a religious event. As I was there on a Sunday, I saw several processions of buggies crisscrossing the landscape.

All outsiders, are referred to as ‘English’.

The Amish  speak Dutch German, but also know English because it is the medium of instruction in school.
Community Schools are the only providers of education. These are typically one room schools, which provide education for children together up-to Grade-8. There are some teachers, but also the elder kids teach the younger ones. The Amish feel no more education is required beyond Grade-8 to practice a life which is in synch with their practices and values. So Amish education stops at grade-8, when the children are around 13-14 years old.

As is to be expected, some people find it difficult to carry on this kind of a lifestyle. Especially youngsters. Especially if you are living in twenty-first century America.

There are people who have moved out of the ‘Amish way’ of life to the ‘English way’. My buggy driver for the Amish heritage tour is one of them. She is in her 30s, and makes a living organizing tours of Amish county for tourists. The biggest risk in making such a choice is that families can face ostracization. Fortunately for her, her father supported her in the decision and moved out of the Amish community as well. Even then, they still follow many of the Amish customs and traditions.  There have been quite a few instances of Amish people running away and starting a new life, especially on the West Coast. Hollywood and American TV has also cashed in on some of that.

Like all other people, there have been conflicts too. At times, conflicts between subgroups have led to "beard cutting" attacks on some members. However, these complaints are rarely brought to the local police.

All this adds up to the mystique of this very unique set of people, who, through their choices,  give to us the simple lesson that one can continue to lead a happy, healthy life by just sticking to basics and that even in today’s world, there is an alternate way possible.

MH 370:: Clinging on to hope, waiting for a miracle

No event in recent times has come to impact me as much as the disappearance of the Malaysian Airlines Boeing 777 MH-30 from Kuala Lumpur to Beijing.
Today is the tenth day since its disappearance and yet, no meaningful clues on where the plane is.
Must be very difficult for the family of friends of all on board and ironically, they must be hoping for a hijack like scenario which still keeps hopes, howsoever slim, alive. Somewhere, possibly, the plane landed and the passengers are safe. There is a 2 year old on the flight, and quite a few below 5 years.
There are a few above 70.
Dear o dear...
What would they be eating ? How would their basic needs be taken care of ?
Very difficult to answer, but then, miracles do happen.
We cling on to hope.
And hope that the ones on board, are safe somewhere, somehow.... and the world would find them soon.
Praying....

IIMpressions on placements

A highlight of the first quarter of every year, for the last many years, has been my visit to B-school campuses for placements.

It is, of course, a great opportunity to increase the brand equity of your organization. And your own. More significantly, when one is  on  (a  horribly ) wrong side of 30s, it also helps 'feel' young. One of the boys.

Here is my take about  some of the processes we undertake on campuses like the IIMs. This would be relevant for those who are visiting these campuses as recruiters. And I hope also for those in front of them.

1) Group Discussion- I think it is a great process. A polite room suddenly metamorphoses into a jungle. Stuff starts getting tossed around. Jargon flies thick and fast.
However, amidst the mayhem, it is a handful of individuals who stand out.
They might not have hogged the maximum airtime, they might not have used the smartest buzzwords. Its a concoction of good listening + good speaking + empathy + (even one) sharp insight that i go for. Airtime hoggers usually move out of my reckoning list rather fast.

2) Interview(s)- When i am being interviewed, i look at it as a massive opportunity to have someone's attention for about half an hour; half an hour in which s/he is keen to talk to me, understand me and think about me. That by itself, is a nice thing. After all, which stranger, in today's world, is interested in anyone else ?
When i am interviewing, i like to hear stories. Examples. Events. They give a much sharper picture compared to theory. Important to remember that someone will share his stories only if you make him comfortable.

Do so.

Offer water. offer your card. Say something about yourself to enable the other person to open up.

Start from talking about his resume. There would be something special in every person. Try and start with that. Draw him to the thought process which led to making choices. And decisions.

If an interviewer wants, it is easy to shift gears. Use this unpredictably.
But always share your own perspective as well. Remember, you are as much on trial as the person in front of you. He is evaluating your organization. He is evaluating you. As much as you are evaluating him.

It is natural to find affinity in persons like yourself - same school, same city, same college, same specialization, there will always be the tendence to create associations and prefer those with similar associations. AVOID THIS AT ALL COST.

3) Post process- After its all over, there would be a few one would have selected. It is natural that you would continue to associate with them and interact with them as they would be joining your organization after some time.
However, for every one who is selected, there would be many more who could not be selected.
Stay in touch with them. Mentor some of them even if you didn't select them. Use them to build the power of referals and goodwill. For your own self. This will take your name into all the organizations that these students go to. And tremendously build your equity in those.

Enjoy  your time. And make it worth the other person's as well.

Walk alone, if no one heeds your call- Jodi tor daak shune keu noy aashe, tobe Ekla cholo re

This is it- the highest it can get !

What can one expect on a morning Delhi to Calcutta flight on a Saturday
morning ?
The feel of calcutta, straight from the boarding gate itself.
But that is not unusual. That is something that one gets on every flight or
train to calcutta.
What is unusual is that a little while after take off, the captain
announces please look outside from the left, thanks to a beautiful day,
you get a crystal clear view of the mighty Himalayas. In all splendor.
Imposing and awe inspiring they always have been, and they made this a
morning like never before.

Just when I thought it can't get better, Captain comes back on radio again,
`Ladies and gentlemen, On your left, the one, and only- MOUNT EVEREST !
The oohs and aahs give way to a pin drop silence as everyone who is awake {
and only a few lucky ones on this plane are } is leaning left, could even
have shifted the plane`s center of gravity.

The view lasts a good ten minutes, and makes the entire effort of the
morning flight worth it.

Thank you life, for yet another wonderful present !

Rock star

Indore: An outdoor culinary journey

To most of my friends and acquaintances, i eat very little.
Only some, though, know of my fondness for good food; especially of the street variety.

In the Central Indian city of Indore, when jewelry shops close down in the Sarafa Bazar, a metamorphosis takes place and the whole area converts into a food paradise. And it metamorphoses a small eater like me into someone who hogs as if there is no tomorrow.

Vendors converge from all over the place, and set up shops guaranteed to provide an experience for the taste buds one is unlikely to forget in a hurry.

Interested ? Walk along, for a multi multi course meal (and a bigger experience)


1) Start local- with the Dahi Khichri (tastes best with sabudana vada)
   

2) Head to the continent- with Honey Pizza


3) Let's get back to India with the 10 flavour Pani-Puri / Golgappa / Puchka. And dont worry, its with Mineral water.

4) Let's go up the Himalayas, onto Tibet- for some Momos (with a dash of Punjabi Paneer)

5) And get to Bombay, and down south- Pav Bhaji alongwith Masala Dosa (special note- with Butter)




6) Right across to the United States- for Hot Dogs

 

one too many, perhaps



7) Too hot to handle- cool it, with Thanda Thanda, Cool Cool, Ice gola 

8) And just in case you need some H2O

 

9) Let's get started again- with some Kulfi and Falooda

 

10) And some Lassi, shrikhand and shikanji



 11) And head to a place that combines China with Southern India

 

12) Head on again, for some healthy food




13) And On to the piece de resistance, Jumbo sized jalebis (these are 250 grams each, the guy said he could make one weighing 1.5kgs if i was keen)

14) Somehow, i need to digest this all- i am falling. Thank God for this meetha Paan




 15) Having gone the distance, i was worried about the gastrointestinal effects the next morning.

I can proudly say i have lived to tell this tale.  Safely, Happily. And on my way back to Sarafa. 

Where will your coffee take you today ? At a mart in hyderabad

Jamalpur and Jamalpur

All those who have lived at Jamalpur need no introduction to it.

For all those who haven't, it is very difficult to explain what Jamalpur is. I have tried it twice in my lifetime:
(http://www.jamalpurgymkhana.co.in/index.asp)
( http://jamalpurgymkhana.tripod.com/jamalpur.htm )

Not being very successful with the 'web' endeavour to explain Jamalpur, i have decided to take a cue from a wise young politician of our times. I believe, like the wise politician does, that Jamalpur can be explained as a 'State of the mind'.

The impact of Jamalpur on the 'state of the mind' can lead one to look for it in the minutae of trite.
For example, finding out how many Jamalpurs are there in the world. Through my research in the pre Google days, i was able to find out there were three more Jamalpurs (pretenders to the name of THE Jamalpur). One in Burdwan district of West Bengal, one in Bangaladesh, and one in Punjab. More than 14 years after Google came into my life, i still haven't been able to figure out a fifth Jamalpur.

Today, i was able to do something which perhaps no one from (THE) Jamalpur has done before. This was about getting close (a few kilometers) to two Jamalpurs within a span of an hour and being conscious about this momentous achievement.

I can understand you being on the edge of your seat. Stay there. And have a look.

(Pic above is a real time view just as i crossed Jamalpur- a mere 11 kms away, vertically)

(Click on the picture to get a full view)

(This is how Jamalpur looked like, from the 11 km distance) 

(Click on the picture to get a full view)

(Moving on from Jamalpur, but living the moment) 

(Click on the picture to get a full view)

(And getting 'close' to the 'second' Jamalpur in a few minutes, this one in Bangladesh)

(Click on the picture to get a full view)

All this while i was on my way to Taiwan- little did i realize a few hours ago that i would get kicked up about this all.

(Click on the picture to get a full view)

But then, this is what Jamalpur does to you- Creates an invisible, irrational, irreversible, incredible state of the mind.

Enjoy !

Fathers Day

Dearest Papa

Wish you a very happy fathers day.

It is the first time in all these years I have come to know that 16 June is Fathers day. 
Not that the date matters, as every single day, every single moment, from the time i was born, I have been fortunate to bask in the glow of your love and your affection.

And from that day onward,  all the millions of  things, no matter small or big, easy or difficult, important or trivial that you have done, for me have been driven  by your unwavering passion to have the very best for your children. 

Words can't say this, it is an injustice to the words themselves. All that I can do is to thank God for blessing me and my sister Rinky with you and Ammji, making us the most blessed and fortunate children in this world.

Your love is the thing I was born with, and is the thing that will always continue to be my most cherished
possession.


Yours. 

Go Indigo

After more than a decade of listening to several speakers of all hues and shades, it was an extraordinary experience listening to Aditya Ghosh, the President of Indigo Airline.

Jotted down below is what all i remember from the speech, as he shared the incredible story of India's fastest growing airline. It also is perhaps the smartest in the business (and my favourite too).

(A) Context- India a huge opportunity

1) GDP growth matters, and typically in an airline industry, the passenger growth rate is 2x of GDP growth rate. So a 5% GDP growth rate in India should translate into a 10% growth in the passenger traffic.

2) The number of potential Indian fliers is a fraction of the population, but growing steadily. From ~ 5% (of population)  in 2006 to ~ 25% in 2015 to ~ 40% in 2025.

3) Among  all major countries in the world, India has lowest airplane departures per capita and has the lowest aircraft density. There are ~ 390 commercial planes in India, while there are ~ 7000 in the US.
(don't bank on the numbers, but the point is that it is a huge difference)

4) The Indian Railways carries 8 Billion passengers per year. All airlines flying in India, put together, carry a total of 60 Million passengers per year.

5) Reinforcement of the hypothesis that India is a huge and growing market


(B) The Indigo story
First flight took off in 2006, more than a year after getting the permissions to do so.
A lot of time spent on preparation.
Driving objective was that Low cost need not be equal to Low Quality.
Focus on lesser routes; get in there, increase depth, increase frequency. Then go to newer routes. (Start A to B. Increase depth of this route. Then start B to C. Increase depth. Then think of connecting A to C. Or D. )

Top 3 things, and the only 3 things they said they will focus on-
- ON TIME
- LOW FARES
- COURTEOUS AND HASSLE FREE SERVICE

These created a strategy around all operations:

- On time did not only imply on time landing or take off. It became a culture of on time everything- salaries, promotions, documentation, meetings, reviews.

- Low fares implied keeping costs under control. But it also meant where one would spend MORE than competition to get a competitive edge. There are things that are beyond control- crude prices, Forex. 55-60% of costs are fuel costs. More efficient the airline, more will be the % of fuel cost in their total cost. It also means innovation. Innovation to create structural advantages (like long term maintenance contracts, supply of planes to capture demand)

- Courteous and hassle free service not just for passengers, but for all employees too. Keeping the whole experience simple was the key.

Ordered a huge number of aircraft (100, to be delivered over a 10 year period. Then again, 180 for the next decade period, the largest order in aviation history. Here, the lead times for supply are several years, 4-5, so early ordering is a competitive advantage) . All same type (A-320). All consistent configuration. Economies of scale. Easier for technical maintenance. Easier for operations. Easier to impart training on.
Invested in long term (15 year) maintenance contracts with manufacturer.
Leased out some of the aircraft to guys like GE, so that keeps cash circulating.

Kept the core on the top 3 things, and doing it again and again, consistently, to make it consistently boring. Leverage the power of CONSISTENCY.

What does the top management track-
Fares, revenues, cost, People

and not stuff like market share


(C) Challenges on the way-
Fuel costs
Ultimate cost of travel to the passenger
Efficiency of the infrastructure, most notably the Air traffic control structure

But the bigger challenge, now that Indigo is the largest airline in India is dealing with COMPLACENCY and ARROGANCE

and most importantly, KEEPING THE EGO UNDER CHECK.
easy to say- go after market share, be the biggest airline, be the best airline. But focus on the stuff which matters, not the ego boosters.

(D) Risks -
- The risk of there being enough demand. In India's case, this seems to be irrelevant, as there is a huge demand, and a massive latent one.
- Technological obsolence- an altogether new tech. of aircrafts comes in, which changes cost structures.
- Re-lease model of planes

(E) Innovation-
Not the one innovation that would give a Billion dollars
BUT
The Billion innovations that would give a dollar each

Examples-
Ramp instead of stairs
Smart branding- 6E, Cut the red tape, Girl Power,
Good, clean food, which itself becomes a USP. Smart names, smart branding on packaging of sandwiches (stories, airwich)
No spend on ads (just smart words / tourists as free models)
(Indigo spend on marketing is <1 11="" against="" as="" kingfisher="" of="" p="" revenues="" s="">

- Driven by a very open to ideas culture. People are never fired, except in the following cases-
a) Wilful negligence
b) Misconduct / Integrity issues
All ideas are met with 'WHY NOT' instead of 'WHY' or 'HOW'

- Driven by a very high focus on Training.
The Air hostesses training of 90 days has only 10 days on customer service. Rest is all on safety and operating proicedures. Every crew has the ability to evacuate a 180 member airplane in 90 seconds in case of water landings. Lot of emphasis on safety and procedures.
This leads to focus on the core.


- HIgh diversity
7200 employees. 40% women. 1/3rd of top leadership women.
Asking every employee the question- what is your dream ? Every one. About themselves. And how hte org can be a medium for enabling it to come true.

- NEVER LETTING EGO COME IN THE WAY OF WISDOM


(F) To summarize-
Have a purpose.
Keep it very very simple.
Relentlessly execute to the extent of having consistency which is BORING.


And

you will suddenly see luck smile on you

:-)

For now, just Go Indigo Go !

Rhineland

Europe in summers is always bright, sunny and picturesque.
A few from today

A Twenty-Twenty with the romance of a test match

I write this from 40,000 feet above the ground. But this is no regular
trans-Atlantic crossing. My mind has taken me far away from here. I was thinking
about the B-school pass out reunion I just had, celebrating 10 years of passing
out. It was good fun, and everyone around had put in a lot of effort to make it
happen and happen well.

That got me to contemplate things that have happened to me besides B-school.

As I tried look for things in life altering perspective, I was conscious of not
trying to be too journalistic, of not trying to label every other event as an
epoch making one. Of calling every little twist as a turning point in the annals
of history. Or closer to now, calling every li'l new feature in an Apple iphone
design a paradigm shift.

Of all the things my mind took me through, it got stuck at something that
started twenty years ago: that fateful day on the Ides of March, 1993.

The day I landed in Jamalpur and the day Jamalpur Gymkhana became an integral
part of my life.

It set about the transformation of a pretty routine, straightforward,
academically oriented life to the experience of being a Gymmie boy. It gave me a
massive amount of exposure to stuff I had never known before, it made me self
sufficient and independent. It got me loads of confidence. It got me into a very
strong network, with extremely well laid out operating principles.

The rationalist in me poses a set of counter questions. Would I have been a
different person had I not been a part of Jamalpur Gymkhana? Wouldn't I have
achieved financial independence and a confident outlook anyway? Would I be
looking at Jamalpur with a different lens had I still been on the railways, with
a possibility of getting posted there. Doesn't everyone say the same thing about
wherever they spend this stage of life in ?

So, what's different ? Or is there anything different ?

It's not that red building, it's not that playground, and it's not the
impressive portals. Most of the people with whom there are a large set of shared
experiences are also not a part of Jamalpur Gymkhana anymore. Nobody at JG
these days even knows about, leave alone look at, the three different Jamalpur
Gymkhana websites I had created in the 90s which spoke about life @ Gym in those
times.
( http://jamalpurgymkhana.tripod.com/ )
( http://www.jamalpurgymkhana.co.in/ )

So what is it ?

I think it is the feeling of home. The feeling that this is a place I can always
go back to,. A place where I will always have stories to share. And listen. A
place where I can feel comfortable just being myself. A place where I need not
have to put on pretence {as long as I follow the club rules ;-) }

I like this. I feel good at my answer.

What of the future? I further the question. Is Jamalpur Gymkhana still relevant
(for me)? Will it remain relevant?

its a question almost akin to asking "Do your parents remain relevant to you
after you become an adult". Just as one does with parents, I derive a lot of
strength from my association with JG. And I always live with the feeling that
Gymkhana is home. A place where I will always be welcome.

I look out of the window. The ocean below never looked nicer.

The boy from ipanema

Deutschland

Spot on

Dealing with the Germans at a professional level is always an enriching experience.
I always feel more earnest and inspired to 'work more, to 'do more' whenever i meet up with Germans. And in the last couple of years, courtesy work and the Fulbright program, this has been one of the nationalities i have interacted the most with. Stereotypes about Germans being gruffy (i coined that term) are just that: stereotypes.

As professionals, they would be one of the most thorough people one would come across, anywhere in the world. When they say it, they mean it. And when they mean it, they do it. And if it cant be done, they tell you as soon as they know it.
With Germans, one expects very few of the tricks that the usual suspects play.
And this is true irrespective of the nature of the professional relationship. I deal with Germans as a customer, and have German customers as well; whichever way one looks at it, the earnestness stands out.


East and West, the twain shall meet
It is also interesting to interact with people from the former GDR, or East Germany and to be in establishments in that part of the country. When i inquired about a comparison between the erstwhile East and West Germany, several people from the eastern part told me that infrastructure in the east has now become better than in the west. The reason is that there was very little of it in the east when the wall came down, so most of the new stuff has now happened there. I can still sense a little bit of iffiness in some people from the west, but that is so much lesser than what it was, say, a decade ago.

All this is in the context of a tremendous amount of transition the German society is undergoing today. The demographics are altering. The country have a lot many more Turks, Romanians, Poles, Bulgarians, Russians than there were even a decade ago. There is an acute concern about the Eurozone. "For how long can we carry the burden" is a question a lot of people are beginning to ask.
For now, though, Germans are carrying along (a la Boxer from Animal Farm)
  The trains and the timings
Impeccable timing, clockwork precision. The cliched phrase, 'One can set the watch by train timings', is spot on here. The public transportation system in most major cities in Germany would be the stuff of science fiction for all Indian ones.
Not too many people still use the e-ticket, for sure a lesser % than in India.That is where we would be scoring, perhaps.
Trains are also a very important player in the journey towards environmental well being, and it is often heartening to see one of world's largest automobile manufacturing countries demonstrate a high level of consciousness and effort towards the environment through the use of public transport and bicycles.

Stay Veggie, stay healthy
Germany is perhaps one the easiest countries in Europe to find vegetarian food in. And this is beyond the odd traditional pasta or dal makhani that one might get outside of India and Italy. In Germany, potatoes are an all weather favourite. An increasingly large number of people are turning veggie too. Salad bars and fruit joints are one of the fastest growing food segments. The country has a long history of 'organized' vegetarianism. As far back as 1867,  Eduard Baltzer, from Liepzig, founded the Deutsche Verein für natürliche Lebensweise (German Natural Living Society) - the first society to promote vegetarianism. Soon, every major city in Germany had vegetarian societies, and after a series of mergers and name changes, all combined to become the Vegetarier-Bund Deutschlands (Vegetarian Federation of Germany).
http://www.ivu.org/history/societies/vbd.html

No longer a leftist

How does one cope with a situation when one is suddenly left with one functional hand.

The evening before Diwali, an accident with a cracker, boom, and it burst with full force, hitting my left palm and tearing away the top layer of the skin. When it happened, the bomb blast seemed like a (real) bomb blast. There was smoke all around, and for a few seconds, i could not see anything. I thought i had lost my vision.  A while later, though, i started seeing stuff.

Some tissues underneath the skin on the palm got burnt as well. I screamed the loudest i ever had. Rushed to a tap. Put the hand under water. It seemed there was an exploding volcano inside. Ice cold water would be the only way i would stop screaming. And this continued for a few hours. Hand started getting swollen. osmosis, perhaps. Liberal doses of Silver nitrate.

Doctor said it would take at least ten days to be functional. The full recovery could take a month.

After the shock and the heat and the doctor came the next phase.  The burn had rendered the left hand unusable.

Welcome to the one handed world.

Eating, washing, cleaning, driving all became major issues, each of which required improvisation. Some, like driving, had to be foregone. Many other things that i had always taken for granted became a massive challenge.

Including, how would i burst crackers the next day, Diwali.

Thank God my Blackberry has distinct and elevated keys. Had i been on a pure touch phone, things would have been very different. .

In a couple of days, newer friends emerge. Teeth, elbow, knuckles . These guys start pitching in. Silver nitrate facilitates.

A few days down the line, the left hand starts coming back into action.

Now, it is almost all back, with a few scaly layers being irritants.

As Mastercard might say-

Crackers- $ 100
Doctor and meccicines- $ 60
To be a 'leftist' again - Priceless

Going Dutch in the Netherlands

Doing business with the Dutch, especially the Dutch from Holland is quite an experience. More than anything else, for the unexpected directness these interactions bring. And for the fascinating colour they provide to the canvas of interactions.

I wondered if this was just me who was feeling this in-your-face-directness. So i googled to see what some others might be thinking. A few samples from the first few hits say-


" Dutch people are very direct. Depending on your point of view, this is rude, tactless or refreshing".

 "Dutch like to think that they are open, honest, to the point and direct. But that is just an excuse for their extreme rudeness".

"The Dutch are known for being down-to-earth and they are very direct. Some people may find this tactless, but Dutch people consider it a sign of honesty"

"The Dutch are in fact proud of all this directness and their very unique tell-it-as-they-see-it mentality. They often consider the English or American forms of politeness a sign of weakness, and reeking of insincerity and hypocrisy, two traits Dutch people absolutely despise".

As one might ponder over the merits of this Dutch trait, it needs no pondering to observe the following attributes:

1) The height: Most of the Dutch i know, both men and women, towered above my puny 5feet, 8inch frame. All my travels, all these years, this was where i felt most like a Liliputian in the land of Gullivers. And data proves it. The Dutch now are officially the tallest nation in the world.
http://www.metro.co.uk/news/35629-dutch-are-the-worlds-tallest-its-official

2) The cycles: Bicycles are everywhere. ranging from the old grandmother-black-no-brakes to modern-geared-sophisticated stuff to the e-bikes, the bikes are everywhere. This is a country which has more bicycles than people, and the rate of growth of the bike population is about four times the rate of growth of the human population. The sobriquet, "Bicycle capital of the world" fits in nicely.

3) The openness- Whether it is in conversations, or in business dealings, or in touristy stuff, the openness in every aspect of life is remarkable. It also manifests itself in iplaces like  coffeeshops (where you can snort upto a certain amount), legalization of the world's oldest profession and much more.

4) Feel of the ubiquitous phrase, 'Going Dutch'. This is a very Dutch expression of what they believe is a natural thing to do. everyone pay for your food at a restaurant, or split the expenses equally. This act, which can be considered disrespectful in many parts of the world, especially the oriental part, is par for the canal in the Netherlands.

5) The windmills- As i see them moving about, at none too great speeds, i try and wonder what is the technology that can tap this slow movement and convert to energy. and the scale ? and the investment ? No wonder they did not take off as anticipated.

And for all the hype, yet to see a single tulip except in a souvenir shop, leave aside the famed tulip garden. Will seek that out tomorrow. And continue my efforts at going dutch with some people
;-)

Love and Faith

This has been an unusual week in many ways. For the first time, i saw two Bollywood movies in the space of four days.
Both from the same Producer director.
One set in 2012.
The other, a full generation ago, in 1982.

'Jab Tak Hai Jaan' left me with a headache, despite my (Fauji onwards-( the teleserial in the 80s)) love for Shah Rukh Khan's massively energetic screen presence.
'Silsila' left me with admiration and awe, of having seen a movie which, in 1982,  was decades ahead of its times, and in which the protagonists' (Amitabh Bachchan, Jaya Bachchan, Rekha) professionalism comes to the core despite their complex individual equations at that time.

One question from both movies stands out as common.

Faith Vs Love ?
This can manifest itself in various sub questions-

Faith or love
Faith and love
First faith, then love
First love, then faith
Go together
Go separately
One without the other

My take is that Faith is love, and love is faith.

Time to enjoy the beautiful tulips in Amsterdam and the fabulous lyrics of this timeless song. Dekha ek Khwab (click below to watch)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpoU-s8zVc8

Quizically yours

It was after quite a few years that i participated in a quiz. Yesterday.
Some two decades ago, as an over enthusiastic schoolboy, i would scout for every quiz that was scheduled in Calcutta. And a rag tag outfit from Kendriya Vidyalaya Baliganj, made up of some permutation from Anand Lakshman (the eternal quizmaster, a permanent fixture), Sandeep Padia, Ashish Jain, Arun Prasad and me would land up in whichever part of Calcutta the quiz was scheduled. Rabindra Sadan (Bankura Horse), Dalhousie Institute (North Star, Sportsworld), YMCA, Airport Ashok Hotel, GD Birla Sabhaghar, Birla Science Museum, Doordarshan Kendra at Golf Green Tollygunje, no matter what the place; Barry, Derek, Neil- no matter which O'Brien the quiz master, the boys in white&blue would always be there. We fought hard in many of those quizzes, made the finals in about a third of those, won one, were runners up in a couple, but for most part, were decimated in the prelims itself. Irrespective, there would be no let down in our enthusiasm to reach out and participate.

Participating in Brand Equity Quiz 2012 yesterday at Hyderabad was a journey to that time. Not the least because the outcome was what happened in most cases two decades ago too- we were eliminated in the prelims. But because being a part of the action set the adrenaline racing. The guessing gene got re-activated all of a sudden, and the answer sheet became the canvas to let imagination run wild.

While the nature of quizzing has changed dramatically all these years, with a lot  more television like feel to it, the thrill hasn't diminished one wee bit. Anticipation for the next question, imagination's wild run while scouting for an answer, the agony of the oh-no and the intensity of the fist clenching yesss: they still remain. Alive, vibrant and kicking. And not to forget, the most important decision of my life was facilitated by a quiz contest (interested in knowing how ?- write to me)

And the next question is ...

The clay Ganesh, a jaadoo creation

Bathing away to glory...

Weekends are fun.
One of the brightest spots on my weekends at home is the time i spend with Jaadoo. Bathing.

Water world comes right here.

And this weekend, we have a new addition to this sport. The pichkaari (water gun).  The toy used on the festival of Holi. Jaadoo found out this Holi's pichkaari from his toy bucket. And yesterday, it became the instrument of our water wars.

The game is simple. Whatever a mug, bucket or shower can do, needs to be done with a pichkaari. And this one, ( adorned with Salman Khan's imposing picture as Chulbul Pandey from the Bollywood movie Dabbang) is quite a stunner. Fast paced and furious, this game is not for the faint hearted. The water jet hits you like a laser, stunning you momentarily. The stinging sensation takes a few moments to come off.
The good part is that it helps to get soap and shampoo off quickly and effectively.

Just finished water wars episode-II a while ago this Sunday.
Mission for the week- find a different pichkaari for next Saturday, one which can throw water out in a funnier way.
All suggestions are welcome. 

Sunday evening fun !

India: auto scores over aston Martin !

Jaadoo's tryst with the queen's language

At real Madrid

From dale steyn to jaadoo ! His autograph on jaadoo's photo.

The world through coloured glasses